We awoke on the morning of January 10th and began our drive northwest through the Amagrosa Valley. The road snaked aimlessly through the treeless plain and anticlimactically crossed the California border. The bleak landscape was barely illuminated by an even bleaker sky. The first landmark …
I signed up for the Seattle Marathon rather late in the year because a friend (Paul Young) said that he had an entry available. I was excited to switch gears from the trail and hop back on the road to test if my legs still had some speed. The course looked rather challenging, which I assumed would be good for my trail running background but not as good for my prospects of running a fast time.
After taking some relatively low mileage weeks following my Teanaway Country 100 miler / San Jose 50K double, I began to build my mileage again. I hit two weeks in a row with mileage in the low to mid 80s with a 21 and 23 mile long run. I mixed up the training with both road and trail and even threw in a few track workouts. I could not fully gauge my fitness but I thought I was in mid 2:40s shape which would equate to a potential 2:50ish Seattle Marathon.
My wife and father both decided to make the early morning drive to Seattle and my friend Joey Chirillo was carpooling with us. Joey kept us all entertained with an array of statistical analysis surrounding Seattle Marathon time projections en route to Husky Stadium. It was still dark at the start line but the city lights kept things fairly well illuminated. The weather was near perfect, with clear and calm skies and temperatures in the upper 30s.
There was a lot of energy at the start line, Apryle and my father were right there on the other side of the corral and runners were nervously jumping and stretching. Somer was the only runner that I recognized at the start line, we wished each other luck and chatted about time goals. I toed the line in the front row and took off in a group of three people. An early rabbit took the lead and faded after about a mile.
As I ran past the University of Washington campus prior to entering the I5 express lane, I saw Aaron Long who was on the side of the road cheering. I flip-flopped position with one of the runners in the early miles as we headed south bound on the I5 express lane. Although it was dark, the streetlights and general glow of the city kept things illuminated to the point that I did not need my headlamp (which Paul had recommended). I chatted briefly with one of the other runners as I tried to keep things light and the pace manageable. We turned around at an arbitrary point on the highway and doubled back towards the university. It is difficult to determine because satellites went out under the bridge but it seems I ran the first 5K in 18:03 and the second in 19:01 for a 37:04 10K split.
After taking the offramp from I5 I saw Bret Jorgensen who ran along side for a few minutes, it was a great morale booster and kept a strong pace as I approached Interlaken Boulevard. There was a very short but steep hill climb which considerably slowed my pace for a moment as I passed through a neighborhood. I eventually reached a pedestrian path which traveled through a forested canopy. Finally the headlamp proved useful and I turned it on in order to better see tripping hazards. As I descended Interlaken trail the eventually winner of the race caught up to me and we ran together for several miles. Despite all the turns, hills, and dark trails, I split the next 5K in 18:30 (15K in 55:34).
We reached the turn around point near Madison Street and ran along the road paralleling the arboretum. At this point it was bright enough that the headlamp was no longer necessary. Fortunately, Apryle and my father were near the 520 bridge interchange where I hoped to see them and Apryle took my headlamp. I was traveling slightly lighter and ready to move at speed over the bridge towards the rising sun. I blew through an aid station and didn’t intend to eat, but James grabbed two gels and asked if I wanted the other. I figured I may as well and took down the gel, which my only calories of the race. In total I probably drank less than 6 ounces of water and consumed less than 100 calories, which is not unusual for me in a run less than 3 hours.
I started to notice that my legs were losing some of the zip they had in the first half of the race, but James and I confirmed that we passed the halfway mark in about 1:17:15, meaning that we were way ahead of goal paces. Additionally, the next 5K stretch that included the transition onto the bridge was an 18:14 split (20 km in 1:13:48). Fortunately the bridge was not too windy and I reached Bellevue feeling ready to tackle the final miles. Upon turning around, James pulled ahead and from that point I pretty much ran alone for the remainder of the race. The stretch westbound over the bridge was difficult because I started to encounter marathon and half marathon traffic.
After getting off the 520 bridge, the convoluted course took me over the draw bridge and then down near the UW boat storage area. Normally when I run near Union Bay Natural Area, I am focused on birding, but during the marathon I was all business. It was at this point that I saw Troy Haeseller, who ran along side and took some video and pictures while I looped around the natural area. The trail surface changed from pavement to crushed gravel complete with some mud puddles that I attempted to avoid. My pace slowed through this area, and even though I prefer trail to road, the soft surface definitely did not help with my speed. The 10K that included the bridge and Union Bay statically confirmed the slowness, I split an 18:46, followed by a painful 19:50 (35 km in 2:11:12).
My form began to falter as I approached the Burke Gilman trail and I was ready for the race to come to a close. Unfortunately the Burke Gilman trail section was a disaster, there was half marathon traffic going in both directions and other trail users on a path that was less than a car width. This also contributed to the slowing pace because I had to weave in and out of people after putting in a near maximal effort for over two hours. Things began to thin out once I reached Winkenwerder Hall and ascended to the courtyard fountain. However, the race organizers threw in one last painful out and back on the Burke Gillman before I finally descended the skyway down into Husky Stadium. This out and back did allow me to see that my current position was safe barring anything catastrophic in the final mile. The 5K segment that included the Burke Gilman was my slowest of the day – 20:50 (40 km in 2:32:11).
I knew that I would break 2:40 but I was unsure how far I would be under my previous marathon PR of 2:39:58 (Cleveland 2011). I crossed the line in 2:38:50 for 5th plae. I was very excited to know that I had finally lowered my marathon PR after over a decade, but I still wish that I had held onto a podium position after being so close to the front of the field all day. The time I ran indicated that I ran the second half marathon in 1:21:35, which was a positive split of over 4 minutes. However, on such a hilly and twisty course I was happy with the time. I was able to celebrate with Apryle and my dad in the stadium and soak in the moment on a very grand stage. The course was scenic for a city marathon, but there were definitely some serious flaws in the route planning. Overall, it was an excellent day, thank you to all the race organizers and volunteers.
I arrived at the Sanborn County Park in the early morning on Saturday October 1st for the Spartan trail series 50 kilometer race. I was greeted by a couple of Black-tailed Deer at the entrance and they did not seem the slightest bit concerned about the line …
On August 21st 2022, I visited Theodore Roosevelt National Park for the second time in my life. I previously visited the park on a cross country road trip (visiting Ohio from Washington) on December 15th 2017. This time the pretense was the same, I was on the second day into a road trip helping my dad move from Ohio to Washington. The first time we visited we stoped at the Painted Canyon entrance and I did a quick out and back run, so this time we ventured further interior. I did a little research and tried to pick a route that I could finish in less than 90 minutes (in order to keep on our strict time schedule of 2400 miles in 3 days). As it turns out I found a very interesting 11.7 mile loop that also happened to be an established FKT route.
So after departing Fargo, North Dakota in the early morning, dad and I reached Medora shortly before noon. The town was very festive and fit the landscape perfectly and the park entrance was right on the other side of the downtown area. Interestingly enough the road into the park actually crosses over I90 and passes by several Prairie Dog towns. As we climbed further into the park we were fortunate enough to spot a couple small herds of American Bison. This was dad’s first time seeing Bison, which is always a very special experience.
We continued past Cottonwood and parked at Peaceful Valley Ranch where I consulted the map one final time and hit the trail in pursuit of the FKT. It was in the mid 80s but decided against taking any water or food because of the short distance. So I darted through Peaceful Valley Ranch, passing by horse stables until I reached the narrow overgrown Jones Creek trail. This trail paralleled the loop road and passed through sagebrush and grasses and with each turn I hoped I would not stumble upon any Bison. I crossed the road at mile 1 (6:18) and then continued east along the dry Jones creek bed out of the Little Missouri basin.
The trail was fairly mild and passed through undulating sagebrush steppe as it gradually ascended. There were excellent views of the iconic badlands formations. The trail occasionally passed steeply through the Jones Creek bed on footpaths that were clearly frequented by Bison. I reached the Lower Talkington trail in 3.5 miles (22:53). The temperatures began to rise as the sun was burning through the sky and even though I was only a third of the way through the run I was already wishing I had water. The Lower Talkington trail was probably the steepest and also the highest (2490 feet) portion of the course.
I reached the Talkington trail at mile 5.3 (34:55) after a sharp descent off the plateau. The Talkington trail began to parallel the loop road from mile 6.5 to mile 6.9. I then merged onto the Lower Paddock Creek trail at mile 7.1 (47:57) and managed to lose my way momentarily after passing through a dry creek bed. The braided Bison trails made route finding difficult, even with the frequent trail markers. Fortunately the remainder of the Lower Paddock Creek trail was easy to see far into the distance and had very little encroaching vegetation. I passed through an adorable little Prairie Dog town that were alarmed by my surprise visit. They warned their friends and scurried into their burrows as I passed through their domain.
As I looked ahead my worst fear about this route was going to come to fruition, there was a herd of several hundred Bison spanning the entire plain from the Paddock Creek valley up to the nearby hillside. There was no way that I could avoid passing through them unless I turned back. So I decided to drop into the creek bed to avoid the first group, but several more darted up from the valley, so I jumped back onto the high ground. I made plenty of noise to advertise my presence and the cows and calves ran away, however, some of the bulls stood their ground making a low growling noise. I kept as much distance as I possibly could but I was right against a steep sloping cliffside. I knew I could jump and slide if needed, but I hoped it would not come to that. I know that I was far too close compared to the recommended distance, but I really had little choice due to the herds positioning.
After 3 minutes of slow walking I made it past the herd and as soon as I got a safe distance away, I sprinted to the loop road. I realize that Bison are one of the most dangerous animals to encounter in the American west and perhaps the smartest decision would have been to just turn around, but in the heat of the moment I pressed forward and I believe that I was very lucky that I made it through unscathed. I think that making my presence known and trying to stay out of sight helped immensely.
When I reached the Halliday Well Road (mile 10.7 1:14:45) I heard some rustling in the bushes along the road and was worried that I spooked some more Bison, but nothing emerged from the vegetation so I continued my sprint pace. At mile 11.1 (1:17:10) I reached the pavement and turned up the pace in order to make it back to the trailhead in under 83 minutes. Once I hit Peaceful Valley Ranch Road I saw Dad’s truck and kicked it in to stop the clock at 1:20:14. I was greeted by Dad and the little pug/yorkie mix Gidget. Overall it was a beautiful route and the shortest FKT I completed to date. I quickly dried off and changed before we piled back into the truck to continue the road trip.
As usual I wished I could spend have more time in Theodore Roosevelt National Park, but in order to complete the road trip, we had to be on our way promptly after I finished my run. Theodore Roosevelt National Park is named after President Roosevelt (1901 to 1909) who used to own a ranch in between the north and south units of the park. He established the United States Forest Service and signed the 1906 Antiquities Act which preserved 18 national monuments. Additionally, he created five national parks, 150 national forests, and several federal reserves which totaled over 230 million acres of protected land. Theodore Roosevelt National Park was not created until 1947, which honored President Roosevelt for all of his conservation efforts.
I find the Dakotas to be one of the most intriguing places in the United States due to the stark landscape punctuated by the badlands formations along with the iconic symbol of the Great Plains – American Bison. Paleontologist surmise that the Bison originated in Southern Asia during the Pliocene Epoch and crossed into present day North America via the natural land bridge. At their peak, the American Bison herds topped out over 60 million. As an avid hunter, Theodore Roosevelt recognized the importance of preserving the Bison herd and without his and others efforts, the majestic Bison may have gone extinct. In 1894, federal legislation was enacted to protect the Bison, with a $1000 fine or imprisonment for killing one of the animals. At that time there was only a small herd in Yellowstone National Park and a few owned by private individuals left in the United States.
In 1956, the park imported 29 Bison from Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge and were released on the south unit (46000 acres). The 29 animals increased to 145, and then subsequently 20 were relocated to the north unit (24000 acres). Today the park managers have set the herd size at 200-400 animals for the south unit and 100-300 for the north unit. I feel very fortunate to be able to see Bison on the plains considering our miserable species dropped the numbers to less than 300 by the end of the twentieth century. We are very lucky that a few individuals recognized a bigger picture beyond their own desires and stood against the majority who would take unchecked until nothing more remained.
In addition to Bison, the two units are home to Prairie Dogs, Elk, Mule and White-tailed Deer, Wild Horses, Pronghorns, Coyotes, Bobcats, Beavers, Porcupines, Badgers, Prairie Rattlesnakes, Bullsnakes, Golden Eagles and many other bird species. The prairie sustains over 500 species of plants, most notably the drought resistant grasses that appear to be a monoculture at first glance but actually consist of many different species such as Western Wheatgrass, Needle-and-thread Grass, and Little Bluestem, among others. In the absence of fire, Sagebrush and Wild Rose occupy the soil and provide less valuable forage. The annual grasses play an instrumental role in the balance of the ecosystem and therefore, fire is a natural and important aspect of life on the Great Plains.
In select areas there are forests in the park and they are typically Rocky Mountain Juniper Woodlands and Hardwood Forests. The Rocky Mountain Juniper Woodlands are most common because they thrive in the microclimates created by the north facing buttes. The less intense heat from the sun and slower evaporation of water allows the juniper to thrive and they in turn reduce erosion, provide resting places for Elk, and food for Solitaires, Waxwings, and Robins. In the riverbeds, hardwood forests consisting of Green Ash, American Elm, Box Elder, and Cottonwoods grow in addition to large shrubs which provide habitat for White-tailed Deer and Porcupines.
Perhaps the most interesting thing about Theodore Roosevelt National Park is the unique geology. The formation of the badlands began in the Paleocene Epoch. While the Rocky Mountains were forming in the west (with the help of water and wind), sediment was being formed. Ancient Rivers carried the sediments (silt, mud, and sand) into the present day Dakotas and creating the layers of the present day Badlands features. In addition to the sediment from the mountains, ash from volcanos in Montana, South Dakota, and Idaho was accumulating in the rivers. These ash layers became bentonite clay. Then in the following epochs rivers eroded the landscape and carved valleys through the landscape en route to the Hudson Bay in Canada. However, in the Pleistocene Epoch the southward advance glaciers stopped the northern flow of the rivers and they were forced to change course to empty into the Mississippi River. This caused the creation of many new channels and sliced through the sedimentary rock layers which is the reason for the current look of the Badlands.
Whether you are intrigued by geology and the stark beauty of the Dakotas, or enjoy wildlife viewing, or simply want to do a side hike on a cross country trip, I highly recommend Theodore Roosevelt National Park. There is something for everyone and it is important to stop and think about the importance of preserving our natural world so that future generations may also enjoy this landscape. Similar to the foresight of Theodore Roosevelt and many others, we must always think about what is most sustainable and best for our collective future, from prairie dog-to-juniper-to-human, because ultimately we are all connected.
The Sawtooth Ridge 50 miler was the hardest 50 I have ever run and it took place only 2 months after the previous hardest 50 miler I have ever run (Bloodroot 50). The race was initially scheduled for July of 2021, but because of the excessive heat warnings, the race was postponed to July 9th 2022. In a humorous turn of events the race had to be rerouted this year because of excessive snow… At any rate this would be my first run in the Methow Valley and I was excited to explore the area and challenge myself over difficult terrain.
Apryle and I left late in the evening on Friday July 8th and arrived at the start/finish area at Foggy Dew Campground near midnight. We quickly setup camp and immediately fell asleep. I awoke about an hour before the start of the race to the sound of the rushing waters of Foggy Dew Creek. The race got underway at 6AM and I took the opening miles very easy in a group of four people (Izzy Ray, Bruce Ronek, and Drew Mueller). We chatted as we trotted up the smooth gravel Gold Creek Road.
Generally speaking it was a very gradual runnable grade and we reached the aid station at mile 6 in about 1:02:28. I grabbed a few pieces of fruit and transitioned onto the Eagle Lakes trail. Here the group was whittled down to Drew, Bruce and myself. We ascended up through a forested hillside before reaching an exposed scree slope with beautiful views. I passed through another aid station and the trail continued up to an arbitrary turnaround point at mile 12.7 (7,367 feet). I reached this point in 2:23:57 and Bruce snapped a few photos and then we were off on our way back down the hill.
Bruce took off on this decent and I chased, leaving Drew behind. The following miles were a little tedious, I could not catch Bruce and I had isolated myself in a lone chase group. I made it back to the start of the out and back (17.2 3:02:00) and took the Martin Creek trail southwestward. At this point the descent ended and I began a gradual climb back up to the next highpoint on the course. The trail was smooth and switch backed through the forest. After a few miles the trail reemerged above tree line and into snowfields.
The next high point was near Cooney Lake at 7,047 feet (23.3 4:23:03). The trail began to descend again and Drew had caught up and the two of us began to pace together in an effort to pull back Bruce. We transitioned onto the Foggy Dew Creek trail at 25.9 miles (4:52:15) and I stopped to refill my hydration bladder and grab some snacks. The trail was more or less a gravel forest road and Drew and I set a good tempo. We reached the low point at mile 32.1 (2,935 feet in 5:44:38). We blew through the aid station since I had just filled up 6 miles earlier and the next aid station was advertised at mile 39. After crossing Foggy Dew Creek we began our second out and back, and I was feeling very confident to finish out the final 18 miles strong. On paper the last two climbs looked very easy compared with the first two climbs of the race. However, coach Apryle told me to not discount those last two climbs because they may look lower and shorter but the grade was probably going to be tough. She could not have been more correct, the third major climb was the toughest of the day and Drew and I were relegated to a hike.
The trail was steep, dusty, narrow and is not even shown on the map as being an official trail. It took us until 7:16:18 to reach the highpoint on the climb (36.7 and 5,923 feet). By our estimation it would be a ~3 mile descent and then an aid station before the return journey.
The ensuing descent was painful… The gradient was 15-20% and reached a low point at mile 39.6 (3,272 feet) with a small stream crossing. At this point I had been out of water for about 2 miles and we had already passed the advertised distance for the aid station. However, for some reason I did not fill up my water bladder at this stream. In this ravine there was no tree cover, only shoulder height shrubs (ceanothis, willow, and grasses). I saw dried Moose scat all over but knew that there would be no Moose to be found in this area in the current heat. The temperatures soared into the low 90s and there was no escaping the sun.
My breaking point was the steep little bunny climb up to another ridge (3,907 feet 40.4), it was only a 600 foot climb but I just sat on the trail for about a minute and Drew pressed forward. I began licking the sweat off my arms and draining my soaked shirt into my mouth. The salt actually tasted good but the sunscreen left a bad aftertaste. I went through short bursts where I ran but mostly I walked the descent to the aid station. I began eating tall blades of grass, this wetted down my mouth and actually tasted okay, it raised my morale and I finally reached the “39 mile” aid station at mile 42.7 (8:53:06).
When I got to the aid station I questioned my ability to continue because I was had stopped sweating, was dizzy and slurring my speech. However, I sat down in the chair and I quickly downed 1.5 liters of water in a matter of minutes. The aid station crew got me cool damp cloths to put on my neck and cooked me some food, while I transitioned to supine on the ground and propped my feet up on the chair. The aid station crew was amazing; they helped to shade me and filled up my hydration pack while I briefly fell asleep. Then I suddenly woke up and started to feel pretty good.
At this time a few other runners trickled in including Izzy Ray, who I shared some miles with early on in the day. I downed some more calories and started back out on the trail. I left the aid station at 9:33:49 elapsed meaning that all in all I spent over 40 minutes at the aid station in an effort to recover. Although mistakes were made leading up to my hydration/calorie deficit, I was proud of my composure and patience at the aid station. I made sure that I was excited to get back out on course before I left.
I was caught and passed by another runner – Timothy on my way back up the final large climb, but I managed to pass him back prior to the summit. It was nice to visit with many other runners on the way back up the mountain and was glad that I did not have to stop at any point on the way up. Once I reached the top of the last climb (49.9 11:51:31) I began to calculate how long it would take me to finish the race. I had already broken my new established record for personal slowest 50 miler, so any amount longer would only build on that.
I reached the last aid station at mile 54.2 (12:44:38) and was told that there was only 2 miles remaining on the forest road back to the finish at Foggy Dew Campground. I was elated to have survived such a strenuous race but still a little disappointed at my time and also that I was dropped by Bruce and Drew. However, I put in a surge to the finish line, closing out the 56.48 mile (16,558 vertical foot) race with a time of 13:01:18.
Thank you to Denis and the Everlong Endurance team for putting on a great race. It was a great course and I really enjoyed the challenge. Thank you to all the excellent volunteers for your help at the aid stations. Thank you John Berta for marking the course. Thank you to Bruce for snapping some photos of me on course. Thanks to Apryle for your support on race day and my training in general.